The next season promises to be more sober, but not peaceful. On the contrary. With a lot of skin on display, fashion trends rethink the relationship between clothing and the body.
As far as international fashion weeks are concerned, summer 2023 will be a little dark. The sobriety paraded on the catwalks of New York, London, Milan and Paris even made us question whether we were really following the proposals for the hottest months of the year. In the color chart, tones of black, grey, purple and dark blue prevail, with one or another more neutral point of light. The fabrics also come a little thicker (or almost), with an emphasis on leather, and the volumes highlight hips and shoulders. Heat appears metaphorically through elements that explore the relationship between clothes and the body: lace, transparencies and cutouts put the skin in evidence.
Leather for the summer, why not?
Breaking the expectations of what is thought of a traditional spring wardrobe and, mainly, summer, leather clothes are unanimous this season. Appearing in most of the shows – from Chloé to Versace, brands with completely different DNA – the material lends a carnality to the clothes, and, therefore, it is still a way of navigating the sensuality that continues to be on the rise. But not everything is like that, as Bottega Veneta has shown with its (almost) basic creations.
With a strong sensual appeal, lace appears in complete productions, from head to toe, or in details. And when combined with slip dresses and nightgowns, their relationship with intimacy is even more apparent. An interesting form of composition presented is to use it almost as a “lining”, in pieces that go underneath others (second skins, long-sleeved bodysuits, tights), appearing under transparencies, necklines or cutouts. For the Romanesque, the fully worked fabric arrives together with ruffles and bows.
After the boom of wide and far from the body, tight silhouettes make a return to the catwalks and promise to invade our wardrobes. It’s possible to observe this adjusted comeback from tailoring, through sporty, to casual and glittery glamor, often combining other elements of Y2K and ’90s fashion, such as low waist, mini length, transparencies and faded dyes.
Naked with hand in pocket
Body framing is not only featured in tight clothing, but also in prints. The trend, which had already appeared in previous seasons, returns with different interpretations. Off-White, for example, embroiders a defined abdomen in blazers and T-shirts, while Balmain plays with nudity based on Renaissance paintings. Other provocations, which remind the consumer that there is a body underneath the garment, are Vivetta’s embroideries with hands that encircle the nipples. Free the nipples! Or almost.
Colors gain an interesting twist this season as they appear in transparent fabrics. Once again, the body is in focus, and not just occasionally, but in its entirety – at least on the catwalks. Prada, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent and Ferragamo are just some of the brands that propose complete looks with transparency, either in single pieces or in combinations. Many of these garments also stretch down the body, covering the neck, arms, and legs. The body is covered but not hidden.
Take note: fringes are making a comeback. Often associated with a western look, in boots or leather jackets, this season the detail appears to bring a touch of fantasy to the compositions: long, the fringes give extra impact when walking, creating the illusion that the clothes have their own movement. However, when worn short and piled up, they resemble feathers, bringing out their characteristic glamour. But be careful: in addition to clothes, they also appear strongly in accessories, such as bags and belts.